Fashion 101: Z

It's the final day of the Fashion 101 series! Yay!  I hope you learned some things from it, as I know I definitely did!  The final word is one that I learned in sociology class.  It seemed like a really fancy word and I ended up using it in almost all of my essays every semester from that point on.  Was it applicable?  Sure.  Did I just like the sound of it? Absolutely!  Here we go!

Zeitgeist

The moral and intellectual trends of a given era.  Taken from the German zeit meaning time and geist meaning sprit, the term's literal translation is "the spirit of the age."  Fashion, art and design are all subject to the zeitgeist and this is reflected in everything from choice of colors, hemlines, hairstyles and cosmetics.  As such, certain designs can be easily classified as originating in a certain era.

Occupy Wall Street

When I try to imagine what today's zeitgeist will have represented, I imagine the influence of the economy and the environment.  For the first time in a while, our generation is standing up and striving to make change.  This is shown through more environmentally friendly transportation, clothing, and community motives.  Our music has aimed to be more empowering for women and minorities.  Burned my corporate schemes and corrupt individuals, it seems that we want to go back to the community as a center and be more organic in our decisions.




Credit: The Visual Dictionary of Fashion Design, Ambrose & Harris

Fashion 101: Y

Today we are learning about fashion, not food.  It's interesting because this word has at least 3 meanings that I know of.  It's similar to Mandarin when the same word with different intonations can have up to 4 different meanings.  Anyways, I'm getting off track.  Let's learn!

Yoke

Definition: A fabric cut that is seamed across the top of a shirt, trouser or skirt.  Quality shirts typically have a two-piece split yoke to ensure an excellent fit across the shoulders.  A yoke is also a decorate fabric attached to the top of a garment around the neck and over the shoulders.

Rebecca Taylor Blouse

The Rebecca Taylor blouse above uses a row of ruffles as yoke for decoration and detail among a simple sleeveless blouse.


Credit: The Visual Dictionary of Fashion Design, Ambrose & Harris

Fashion 101: X

Let's be real. How many words even start with X?  Maybe 10?  So I'm going to do a little switcharoo today. Let's talk art.

Madame X

Definition: A portrait painting by John Singer Sargent of a young socialite name Virginie Amelie Avegno Gautreau, wife of Pierre Gautreau.  The model was an American expatriate who married a French banker, and become notorious in Parisian high society for her beauty and rumored infidelities.  She wore lavendar powder and prided herself on her appearance.

Madame X

In Madame X, what's interesting is the use of exposure versus the amount that's hidden.  The majority of her figure is covered, as is one side of her face.  However, her porcelain white arms that are heavily contrasted against the black dress are exposed along with her shoulders, which was risque for those days.  It makes quite a statement in sexuality, mystery, and societal perceptions.


Credit: Wikipedia

Fashion 101: W

From the post about selvage, I learned that most of you have an aversion to sewing.  Because of that, I thought it was important to bring some more sewing terms into the mix.  If anything, it will make you sound a little smarter when you're shopping with friends.

Welt Stitch

Definition: A horizontal stich for joining two pieces of fabric, giving a ribbing appearance, such as the seam of a baseball.  Welt stitch also refers to the trim ribbing at the hem, cuffs and neck of a knitted garment.  Welt stitching can also be used to attach the sole of a shoe to the upper.

Doc Martens Gold Floral Flocked Boot

Doc Martens are known for using a contrast welt stitch to seal the sole and upper.  It has been a staple within all of their shoes, regardless of style.


Credit: The Visual Dictionary of Fashion Design, Ambrose & Harris

Fashion 101: V

Today's word almost sounds scientific, which is definitely not within my normal vocabulary.  It is definitely technical, but interesting to know, especially if you love textiles as much as I do.

Variegated

Definition: A fabric produced with different colored yarns or threads to provide streaks, marks, or patches of different colors   Knitting can produce a complex variegated pattern by both using yarn that contains streaks, and combining different yarns in the knit.  By manipulation of the warp and the weft, flowers and a variegated color can appear in the weave of brocade.

Mary Katrantzou FW 2011

Mary Katrantzou used a very intricate variegated pattern in the tights for her FW 2011 collection.  Silk, wool, acetate, polyester, nylon, and lurex are knitted to create the digital print from which she is famous.


Credit: The Visual Dictionary of Fashion Design, Ambrose & Harris

Fashion 101: U

Raise of hands: how many hear this word non-stop around fashion week?  It's often a go-to description for looks, but what exactly does it mean?

Utilitarian

Definition:  Clothing that primarily serves a functional purpose, such as providing warmth, protection, or some practical use.  The majority of work clothes that one associates to a particular profession are utilitarian, but such garments are sometimes adopted  into mainstream fashion.  Denim jeans were originally hard-wearing work trousers developed for Californian gold miners.  Contemporary designers have appropriated utilitarian values and styles as can be seen through various interpretations of the cargo pant: a loose-fitting trouser with several deep pockets and a hammer loop, traditionally worn by skilled manual workers such as carpenters.  The emphasis in such a garment is on practicality rather than style although, through appropriation, it often becomes a style.

Tapeet Moto Boots

A huge trend in utilitarian fashion has become the moto boot, based on functional motorcycle boots.  It went from steel-toed clunky black boots to fashionable, heeled boots with a similar buckle on the upper.


Credit: The Visual Dictionary of Fashion Design, Ambrose & Harris

Fashion 101: T

Today's word is often one that gets confused.  When you first read it, does it make you think of a decorative blue or black pattern on a white background and miniature repeated scenes of families frolicking in the woods?  Well, I thought that's what the word meant.  It's not.  That particle pattern is toile de jouy, as seen below.  Look at that, two words in one day!

Toile de Jouy

Toile

Definition: A garment created as a test for a new pattern of design, typically from cheap material such as gingham cloth or calico.  A toile or muslin allows the designer to see how a design works and hangs, allowing it to be altered and perfected prior to producing the finished garment.

Project Runway, Season 7

Above you while see Emilio from Project Runway created a toile jacket for his children's clothing challenge.  This is essential to get an idea of the fit and style he wants to create.


Credit: The Visual Dictionary of Fashion Design, Ambrose & Harris

Fashion 101: S

Who sews?  Not I.  I neither have the patience nor time to even embark on the task.  I know the basic stitches, can fix a button, and mend a hole.  Anything else, fuggedaboutit.

Selvage

Definition: The uncut edge of a woven fabric that is on the right and lef-hand edge during manufacture.  Selvage or selvedge will not fray as the yarn returns on itself and thus appears finished.  Selvage tends to be cut away or hidden by a hem as it may carry a different pattern to the rest of the fabric, have a different weave pattern, or lack pile.

Selvage Jeans

On jeans, the selvage is generally left in tact for a more quality piece.  When left, the selvage reinforces the seam, since it cannot be unraveled.  Generally, the more expensive jeans have the selvage left in, which can be seen when cuffed.

Credit: The Visual Dictionary of Fashion Design, Ambrose & Harris

Fashion 101: R

During my many Costume History classes throughout college, I often ran into today's word.  Looking back, the shocking accessory seems silly, pretentious, and quite amusing.  But what would the world be without a little bit of satorical drama?

Ruff

An interchangeable starched fabric frill worn at the neck of a shirt in Elizabethan England and 16th-century Europe.

Gareth Pugh SS2009

In Gareth Pugh's SS2009 collection, his use of ruffs and starchy, crisp pleats took a nod back to Victorian England.  However, his use of simply black and white took more of a futuristic approach to the movement of fashion.




Credit: The Visual Dictionary of Fashion Design, Ambrose & Harris

Fashion 101: Q

The Visual Dictionary of Fashion Design, Ambrose & Harris doesn't have any Q's either.  Shame on them!  So, let's deviate a little from fashion terminology and talk more about fashion sources.

Quadrilatero

Definition:  This area contain the most prestigious boutiques and showrooms in the world, full of minimalist design and provides a triumph of consumer stimulus that only a select few can respond to.  In this square area, that is extremely expensive, luxury is the true protagonist.

The Quad

The Quadrilatero in Milan is one of the premier shopping destinations for the rich and glamorous.  With stores like Gucci, Chopard, and Bvlgari, it will be hard to resist all of your decadent shopping fantasies.

Fashion 101: P

You know how French words always seem fancy?  That's exactly how I feel about today's word.  I must admit my guilt in not knowing this word.  French is not my forte and thus, I was never enticed to find out the real meaning.  Well, here it is.

Pret-a-porter

Designer clothes sold in standard sizes rather than made to measure.  French for ready-to-wear, pret-a-porter or off-the-peg clothing sacrifices the tailored fit and exquisite finish of haute couture for a lower price and ease of purchasing.  Haute couture fashion houses produce pret-a-porter ranges of their designs as the high garment turnover offers higher profits.

Net-a-porter takes a spin on pret-a-porter in the sense that they offer online retailing with ready-to-wear merchandise, accessories, shoes, and bags.


Credit: The Visual Dictionary of Fashion Design, Ambrose & Harris

Fashion 101: O

There is no "O" in The Visual Dictionary of Fashion Design.  So I had to think of my own word for today.  I was trying to think of technical terms, historically relevant events, and even designers.  What I then thought of was perfect.  It matches my view on what I think fashion should be and how I try to reflect my own personal style.

Opulence

Definition: Wealth, Riches, Influence.  In abundance or excess.

Early 90s Versace

When I think of opulence, I think of the late Gianni Versace.  His designs always had an excess of flair, embellishment, and color.  Both his lifestyle and his designs exuded wealth, extravagance, and luxury.

Source: Merriam Webster

Fashion 101: N

Since taking Textiles class last semester, I have become a major dork on the subject.  I love everything to do with fabrics, yarns, dyes, and new man-made fabric technologies.  I'm sure you all know today's word, but do you know the history behind it?

Nylon

Definition: A strong, lightweight material with elastic properties used for clothing and other items.  Nylon was the first man-made fiber, developed by DuPont in the early 1930s.  It is noted for its bright lustre, sheerness, abrasion resistance, ease of washing and drying, and color resistance.  It is commonly known for its use in women's stockings during the 1940s.  Chemists from New York and London were originally responsible for developing the compound material, hence the popular theory that "Nylon" stands for New York-London.  However, DuPont first claimed "nyl" was randomly chosen, while "on" was copied from the suffixes of other fibers such as "rayon" and "cotton."

Wolford Wilderness Tights

While Nylon is primarily known for its use in pantyhose, tights, and leggings, it is also used in other garments to provide stretch and elasticity.  Swimwear is also a large source of Nylon usage.


Credit: The Visual Dictionary of Fashion Design, Ambrose & Harris

Fashion 101: M

Here in the US, we don't wear hats nearly as much as we should.  Judging by our reaction alone to Princess Beatrice's hat for the Royal Wedding says something.  Come on, fashion folk, let's get fancy and get into millinery!

Millinery

The craft of making hats and hat trim.  Millinery refers to the hats designed, produced, and sold by a milliner and probably derives from the Middle English milener, which means native of the Italian city Milan - a source of bonnets, lace and other hat-making materials.  Millinery provided the starting ground for many famous designers, including Coco Chanel.

Millinery is quite a dying art, although royal events and couturiers are often the sources of the most business.  Above you will see a fascinator headpiece from TocameMika, the designer of my own wedding fascinator.


Credit: The Visual Dictionary of Fashion Design, Ambrose & Harris

Fashion 101: L

We all love glossies right?  I know I do.  I used to work at a diner during high school and each Sunday when I would get off work, I would go straight to the book store and buy the latest foreign fashion magazine I could find.  Who cares if I couldn't read it? They had gorgeous pictures!

La Gazette du Bon Ton

A leading European fashion magazine published in the 1910s and 1920s and founded by Lucien Vogel in 1912.  La Gazette du Bon Ton presented fashion, lifestyle, and beauty trends with dramatic garment illustration by many art deco artists.

La Gazette du Bon Ton, 1915

La Gazette du Bon Ton was the original source of inspiration for European women interested in fashion and art.  Each illustration was based on real garments, such as the Paquin, Lanvin, and Doeuillet suits in the above image.


Credit: The Visual Dictionary of Fashion Design, Ambrose & Harris

Fashion 101: K

Today's word is generally a dirty one in world of fashion.  It mocks sophisticated traditional fashion and takes style into its own hands.  With this word, designers like Jeremy Scott, The Blonds, and Richie Rich are able to be successful.  And thank goodness for that!  Fashion should have more of a sense of humor!


Kitsch

Definition: A style that is considered to be overly sentimental and/or pretentious.  Kitsch often draws upon mass culture and mass-produced items that may previously have been met with critical disdain.  As fashions change, what was once kitsch becomes cool.  While aesthetically considered bad taste or garish, many people take pleasure in kitsch designs, whether ironically or not.  French designer Jean Paul Gaultier is known for injecting kitsch into the usually sophisticated world of couture.

Patricia Field

There is no one in fashion that has more kitsch factor than Patricia Field.  This is a woman who made oversized flower brooches, stripper chic, and 80s b-boy jewelry fun to incorporate into everyday wear.  With her wild magenta hair, she is someone that puts the fun and irony back into fashion.


Credit: The Visual Dictionary of Fashion Design, Ambrose & Harris

Fashion 101: J

The inspiration for fashion never ceases to amaze me.  Designers have been driven by exotic cultures, current events, popular culture, etc.  Today's word has crossed over into fashion from sports.  I don't think it's the first and it won't certainly be the last (at least based on the amount of baseball caps I've been seeing in the blogosphere).

Jodhpurs

Definition: Tight-fitting trousers worn for horse riding.  Named after the city in India where they were originally made, they feature a tight fit on the lower legs but are flare above the knee and incorporate specialist riding adaptations, including seams on the outside of the leg, a wear patch inside the knee and a harder-wear seat panel.  The use of modern stretch fabrics saw jodhpurs adapted for fashion in the 1980s, and they were worn by New Romantic bands such as Duran Duran, Spandau Ballet, Adam and the Ants and Simple Minds.

Louis Vuitton FW 2011

Marc Jacobs used jodhpurs on the FW 2011 Louis Vuitton runway as a foil for the erotic look of sheer skirts, latex shirts, and rubber dominatrix footwear.


Credit: The Visual Dictionary of Fashion Design, Ambrose & Harris

Fashion 101: I

Growing up, I always hated history.  I felt that it was outdated (duh) and didn't really do anything for me at the time.  As I've gotten older, I've realized that history is completely relevant and important to know in order to understand the present and the future.  Now I find myself reading biographies and historical memoirs that capture the essence of lost eras and how it incorporates into the world today.  I'm such a daydreamer.

Industrial Revolution

Definition: A technological, socio-economic and cultural revolution that began in 18th-century England and saw mechanization replace manual labour.  The textile and wool industries were the first to benefit with increased production capacity, prompting people to flood into growing cities like Manchester from the country.  Industrialisation replaced the spinning wheel and hand loom and saw improvements in raw material production.  The subsequent growth of the weaving industry saw manufactured cotton goods become the dominant British export.

Chinese processing plant

In the past decade, China has also faced an industrial revolution of sorts.  They are the 2nd ranking largest economy and the fastest-growing one at that.  In the 1960s, 60% of the workforce was involved in agriculture production.  Today it's less than 20% as the workforce continues their migration to produce electronics and textiles.


Credit: The Visual Dictionary of Fashion Design, Ambrose & Harris, Wikipedia

Fashion 101: H

I'm pulling the big guns out today. It's about to get real serious. I'm about to start a major soapbox. And while we're at it, bring out the high horse because I'm going to get on that too. Today's word is grossly misused and it brings shame to the one true artform that represents fashion from beginning to end. I hope all of you had a good breakfast, some ginkgo biloba, and a good night's rest. This is a term you need to know and you need how to use properly.

Haute Couture

Definition: Exclusive custom-fitted fashions that are the pinnacle of the fashion industry. Haute couture, which is French for high sewing or dressmaking, has become a global industry that drives clothing retail and a significant part of magazine sales. Haute couture garments are made to measure and are typically produced from high-quality materials, which are sewn with extreme attention to detail and finish, often by hand. Haute couture originated in 18th-century France when fashions of the court at Versailles were imitated across Europe. The modern industry was begun by Charles Frederick Worth (1826-1895), who created one-of-a-kind designs and prepared designs shown on live models.

Dior SS2007

Today there only 11 official Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture designers. To earn the right to call itself a couture house and to use the term haute couture in its advertising and any other way, members must follow these rules:

• Design made-to-order for private clients, with one or more fittings.
• Have a workshop (atelier) in Paris that employs at least fifteen people full-time.
• Each season (ie-twice a year), present a collection to the Paris press, comprising at least thirty-five runs/exits with outfits for both daytime wear and evening wear.

(Haute) couture is not:

• Juicy Couture, Wildfox Couture, or other casual lifestyle brands.
• Any expensive fashion.
• Any designer, collection, or runway show.
• A term to use when you want to make something sound elegant, chic, or exquisite. It is a renowned term to be reserved for exclusive members that earned the right to be part of the Chambre Syndicale.

Credit: The Visual Dictionary of Fashion Design, Ambrose & Harris, Wikipedia

Fashion 101: G

I just learned the technical definition for this word during my Product Development class at FIT this semester! Yay for education!  Here's the definition so the rest of you can learn it, if you don't know it already. (Speaking of the other grading, Professor, if you are reading this, I think I deserve an A+, if simply for mentioning this term on the blog.)

Grading

Definition :Scaling a garment or shoe pattern to a different size by increasing or decreasing important points of it.  A size 10 dress pattern can be graded to produce patterns for sizes 12, 14, 16 and so on.

Fashion Croquis

Today, many companies use a digital, mechanized system for grading a pattern.  It uses an automatic formula that most fashion retailers and designers base sizing.  Generally if clothing has a poor fit-to-size ratio, it is probably based on the original measurement of the fit module, as opposed to the grading system.


Credit: The Visual Dictionary of Fashion Design, Ambrose & Harris